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Post by ronc on May 4, 2020 17:44:50 GMT -5
We’ve had problems cooling our rig in the past. With closable floor registers and a blocked return air grate ... the outside temperature today was 98 ... our inside thermostats read 76 in living room and 73 in the bedroom. Very comfortable. Three years ago the outside temp was 100 and the interior was 88, which was not acceptable. Just a couple of inexpensive modifications have made a huge difference. No shade at all. Sharing this for new members.
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Post by ronc on May 3, 2020 9:51:56 GMT -5
Since you have a 2017, your truck will likely “tell” you when service is needed. I have a 2016 Ford F-350 dually ... it tells me when the oil needs to be changed, when the fuel filter needs to be changed, when the anti freeze additive needs to be checked, etc. I only use a Ford dealer, so they know if any service bulletins have been issued and generally just know my vehicle better than anyone else. It may not be the cheapest way to maintain a vehicle, but it makes sure all the important maintenance events are taken care of at the right time. A diesel truck is not a car and needs unique care ... which is why I rely on the Ford Dealership network for those services.
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Post by ronc on May 1, 2020 11:18:51 GMT -5
I have a Hensley Trailer Saver BD-3 18k air ride hitch (the name says it all). It was rated for 20 k, but for marketing purposes, it was re rated to 18k with a 3k pin weight (formerly rated at 4K) ... for the same reasons. It is pricey, but worth it.
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Post by ronc on Apr 9, 2020 11:19:25 GMT -5
Following.
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Post by ronc on Apr 6, 2020 14:25:29 GMT -5
Just an aside, whenever I hitch, or level, I have my truck plugged in and, if possible, running. Lyle My auto level does a "dip" before leveling ... I always pull the truck out of the way for that ... but I do plug in the shore power before that, so I get the charging from the converter during the arrival phase of travel. During departure, plugging in the truck would be more helpful than leaving the shore power connected. I'm a big fan of making sure the truck is fully warmed up before towing and fully cooled down after towing so I'm good in that regard.
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Post by ronc on Apr 3, 2020 13:30:32 GMT -5
Just an aside, whenever I hitch, or level, I have my truck plugged in and, if possible, running. Lyle A good plan. I usually leave the shore power plugged in thinking that would be best for leveling and extending slides, or retracting levelers and slides ... but it turns out that might not give me the "help" I need unless I recycle the power. Plugging in the truck should provide charging for the batteries.
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Post by ronc on Apr 3, 2020 10:21:13 GMT -5
Is that a propane water heater or only electric? Have you thought about upgrading your converter? It is propane only, but it does use 12v dc for ignition and fans. It would be a good idea to up grade the converter, that’s no doubt.
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Post by ronc on Apr 2, 2020 23:07:59 GMT -5
We hear a lot of popping noises now that we didn’t hear before we moved. I’m wondering if it is the hydraulics? Unfortunately I don’t know anything, but I’m about to buy some adjustable screw jack stands and put under frame and see what happens. It is most likely hydraulics. You should try the anti stiction remedies recommended in this post ... assuming you have not already done so.
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Post by ronc on Apr 2, 2020 14:11:31 GMT -5
I have a Truma AquaGo on demand water heater ... lately it's been faulting for "low voltage". I have two Lifeline GPL4D AGM 12 volt batteries (210 amps each) that are about 4 years old. I called my local Lifeline dealer and we talked about my batteries. When I told him I was plugged into shore power and had been for the last 8 months ... he told me that most inexpensive (cheap) converters deliver a high charge for about 2 hours then go into float mode ... none of this is based on battery condition, just time. Knowing what I know about RV manufacturers, I'm sure the converter the factory installed is as cheap as possible. To get the batteries to recover, I have turned the shore power off 3 times based on a 3 hour full charge cycle. The battery voltage displayed on my inverter was 13.1 V ... after the power on off cycles it now reads 13.7 so something to be said for cycling the shore power. My AquaGo seems to like the change and is not faulting. The lesson learned is that when plugged into shore power for a long time, your batteries will not be fully charged. This is important to auto level systems (like LCI's level up) that rely on batteries to operate.
Thought I would pay this nugget forward.
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Post by ronc on Apr 1, 2020 19:22:10 GMT -5
Lyle ... I see your point, and anything is possible, but just about every mobile home and “park models” are all on cinder block “foundations”. While I can visualize a “cascading failure”, I have never heard of one actually occurring.
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Post by ronc on Mar 31, 2020 13:27:29 GMT -5
Thanks Ronc. Yes, I'm here long term. I'm surprised that its not unusual to re-level every few weeks. I do use the cement pavers, 2 on each leg. One of the neighbors uses 2 18x18x3/4 wood glued and screwed together. Same leveling system, and doesn't have any issues. Maybe the wood is better than the pavers or the larger area spreads the weight more. I do raise the legs and slides in, hitched up to remove/add the oil. I do cycle all the jacks and use dry lube on a regular bases. I do not see any indication of leaks. I'll try another quart of the Torco, or just regular gear oil - any thoughts on the fork oil vs gear oil?
DO NOT use regular gear oil. The hydraulic fluid in you system isn't gear oil ... it's more like automatic transmission fluid. The anti stiction oil has very high lubricity ... very slippery ... and is the only approved additive.
When I said to use concrete blocks and wood wedges ... I meant from the ground all the way up to the frame. When you use two pavers you are just shortening how much the hydraulic levelers extend ... but they are still in the leveling system. The cement blocks I'm suggesting REPLACE the hydraulic levelers as the primary support of your rig. Like setting up old mobile homes, before the days of auto level systems.
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Post by ronc on Mar 29, 2020 12:19:48 GMT -5
I did the removing 1 quart hydraulic fluid and adding Torco. I really find that it hasn't helped. I need to re-level every 3 weeks to a month. Walking around in the fiver I creak creaks. I hear near the entry door these sounds when I'm sitting still watch the tube. I don't know what the problem could be. But, my next step is checking the jack bolts. Does anyone know what the torque values are? One of the others here at the park suggested putting scissor jacks on the back of the trailer's frame - near the end. I have the leveler's pad on 2 12x12 concrete pavers. Not really sure if that was the best idea. It’s OK to add a second quart of anti stiction fluid if needed. In order for it to work properly, you will need to cycle the jacks fully up and fully down several times. The need to re-level every 3-4 weeks is not unusual. The level up system is intended to auto level a rig when traveling. It is not intended to be a “level forever” thing. If you are permanent, or a very long timer, use cement blocks and wood wedges to maintain a more permanent level. The creaking is definitely stiction and it just “happens” in hydraulic systems.
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Post by ronc on Mar 20, 2020 15:45:32 GMT -5
Generally, the anti-stiction stuff is most helpful when the rig is sitting level on the jacks and as you move around, it makes a popping noise. Not saying it can't happen while it's in operation (extending or retracting) but that isn't the "usual" stiction issue. I would lean more toward a weak battery to cure the OP's issue. The Level Up system always runs off the battery, so a fully charged fresh battery is a must ... an old battery without much "capacity" left will not get it. JMO. New trailer dealers usually put in cheap small batteries ... it is left up to the owner to buy the upgraded batteries. Just another place where corners are cut at the expense of the customer.
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Post by ronc on Mar 7, 2020 11:34:58 GMT -5
Speaking of Lippert ... I know they had a big FAIL with their “smart arm” awnings ... but now I see they are advertising them again. Is this an improved version, or just the same thing???
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Post by ronc on Mar 6, 2020 19:18:51 GMT -5
The Lippert topper looks slightly different than the originals, but it’s only noticeable if I point it out. But to answer your question directly ... it has performed as advertised since it was installed ... nearly 2 years now. I like it fine and if I had another failure, I’d get Lippert to replace it. Thanks, getting them installed by factory guys takes a lot of potential issues out of the equation, and I am pretty much done working on ladders. Me too ... also done with climbing up on the roof😏
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Post by ronc on Mar 3, 2020 10:29:09 GMT -5
If I recall the SCT was 40 Tow/90 Street/150 race also nothing over 40 while towing. I pull mountains towing at what ever speed I want and we have some big mountains out west. I can't imagine more power than it has. I’m still stock (440 hp) and I’m heavy (17,300 lbs fifth wheel weight) ... big mountains are a management issue, I could go faster up the grade, but the rpms would be high and I don’t want to abuse the equipment. Often, I find myself in 4th gear (sometimes 3rd) and kinda 50 mph ish. Going down, same speed and gears ... love the exhaust brake.
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Post by ronc on Mar 3, 2020 10:18:02 GMT -5
I met some people that had generator on back they ran to keep dog cool In trailer while they pulled That had a rear plug for shore power? I carry a genset on the rear but my shore powers about mid way on the side, lot or rewire to be able to run driving. Guess I could duck tape the cord to the side. Several 5ers have their plug in the rear ... Montana has that.
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Post by ronc on Mar 2, 2020 22:17:11 GMT -5
The Lippert topper looks slightly different than the originals, but it’s only noticeable if I point it out. But to answer your question directly ... it has performed as advertised since it was installed ... nearly 2 years now. I like it fine and if I had another failure, I’d get Lippert to replace it.
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Post by ronc on Mar 2, 2020 20:06:26 GMT -5
Update. Hitch in and was 10 inch high. Adjusted the hitch to 15" in bed total of 16" and got to 7 inchs nose high. Took it to a RV shop in Lancaster,PA for our first drive. A bit scary but did not have to pass any Amish buggys. They said it was not bad. Scheduled inspection and suspension work. Question is on replacing my 5th hitch. Pro Series 15K has just a paddle and I would like jaws. Looking at a Curt Q20. Can't go B&W since they only go down to 16". Thanks for the advise. Chris Just a note ... if you lower the nose of the trailer (relative to the truck bed) ensure that you have at least 6” of bed rail to bottom of trailer clearance and more is better. If the distance between the bottom of your trailer and the truck bed rails is less than 6”, you run the risk of them hitting each other in off camber turns. Campgrounds are often not level and there is a definite chance of them hitting if that clearance isn’t adequate ... I have 7” FWIW.
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Post by ronc on Mar 1, 2020 22:41:36 GMT -5
I met some people that had generator on back they ran to keep dog cool In trailer while they pulled I am learning that this is “a thing” ... I thought I was off on a creative track and come to find out, the path is well worn😏
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