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Post by cowboycool on Dec 4, 2022 17:27:42 GMT -5
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Post by 660catman on Dec 4, 2022 21:33:42 GMT -5
I’m pretty sure with over 100 responses you would have got the info you need. Maybe you didn’t listen or don’t understand it. It’s very simple, so read carefully!
On every camper there is 110v and 12v circuits.
The 110 circuits power the AC, TV, microwave and household style plugs , electric water heater and the AC to DC converter. It will power the fridge too is not set to gas.
The 12v system powers the lights, slide motors, jack motors, fridge (when set to gas) bathroom fan and water pump. All the 12v items work off the battery.
You don’t need a battery if you are plugged into 110 power. The converter operates the 12v stuff. The converter also charges the battery for when you don’t have 110 power. No 110 power, no AC, microwave, TV or household plugs.
You need to be plugged into a 30 amp plug to operate the AC. A regular 110 plug won’t do.
Leave the battery switch on for now, plug the camper into 110v with the adapter or directly into a 30 amp plug. It will charge the battery. Deep cycle batteries are meant to run down to nothing and recharge. They’re not like an automotive battery.
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Post by rvcouple on Dec 5, 2022 0:09:41 GMT -5
What 660catman said. Plug it in with the battery turned on. I'm assuming you are at home and know the power is "good". If that's the case, the surge protector probably isn't needed. If you are using an adapter to plug your 30 Amp cord into a standard household outlet, you may not be able to run your AC, but.... The AC might work without tripping the 15 Amp breaker, if you aren't running any other high draw AC items or heavy draw DC items which will cause your converter to pull more AC amps to supply the needed DC. As 660catman said, you have an AC to DC converter that will run the 12V DC items and charge your battery, if it's turned on. The converter has a limited amperage output and without the battery charged and able to supplement the output of the converter, it may not be able to run high amp items like the motor for your slide. Our converter runs everything without the battery turned on, EXCEPT the slide out. Plug your trailer in with the battery on, leave it connected for 24 hours. Disconnect the shore power and use your panel to check the battery level. It should be full. Plug the trailer back in and you should be able to operate everything except maybe the AC. You need to understand the AC and DC circuits in your trailer and power draw for items. Learn to manage how much and what type of electricity you use. It will make using your trailer much more enjoyable. |
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Post by cowboycool on Dec 7, 2022 13:05:46 GMT -5
66catman & RV couple... best explanations I have received. You were the most complete. I do read very well and I did a lot of research and could find no definitive answer. As for understanding DC voltage if I could have found a schematic or wiring chart I would have understood completely. I taught board level repairs for several years which is DC theory on steroids. We did not integrate gas. I can diagram an inverter for you it still does not tell me which one is on the trailer. The ? were because I have yet to find the information on line. I did not know what was at rest, active low or high (all DC circuits work off of triggers) they are called LOGIC LOW or LOGIC HIGH. I understand that 15 amps will not drive the full 30 amp system. I was told by INTERSTATE BATTERY that the battery should have maintained and not go dead. yet it did. I did not know that there was a built in trickle charger or the third position of the battery disconnect switch. I LEARNED A LONG TIME AGO... The only stupid question is a question not asked... HAPPY HOLIDAYS PEACE OUT ... the converter is trailer talk, it is actually a step down transformer, The problem with the DC television is the HERTZ CYCLE so their is no true high def in dc. the DC sign is half of the AC wave. The advantages of AC is the sign will travel farther than a true DC circuit and not have the sign break down. The reason you remove the negative from a battery first is to prevent a spark, an unsealed battery has fumes from the acid and in the right setting could cause an explosion.
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Post by 660catman on Dec 7, 2022 15:04:07 GMT -5
FWIW, we in the RV world use the names of converter, 110v to 12v or inverter, 12v to 110v.
You mention a TV as 12v. I didn’t think any TV installed is a 12v. Way back with the kids we had a 12v TV with a built in VHS tape player. It was like 13” for screen size.
As I mentioned RV deep cycle batteries can be drawn down to dead. Just don’t let them freeze, then they will not last.
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Post by cowboycool on Dec 7, 2022 19:12:59 GMT -5
On the walmart.com there are 3 DC tv's based on 12volt (probably based on excelerator for cycle). The point I was making was I knew just a smidge about DC, what I did not understand is it's application in the trailer. Your information helped immensely. GIDDY UP GO... HAPPY HOLIDAYS... PEACE OUT
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Post by 660catman on Dec 7, 2022 22:08:13 GMT -5
If you plan to do a lot of boondocking aka, camping without services, you may want to invest in an inverter generator. I did last year as spots with power are few and far between with the explosion of new people camping out there. A 2000 watt will charge your batteries and work any appliance but not all at once for appliances. It still won’t run the AC. However pair them up with a parallel kit you can run anything. I personally bought two Firman WO1782 1700/2100 watt inverter generators. Now I don’t care whether I get a site with power. If you’re young and strong a big 3300 watt will do. The big ones get heavy though. The smaller ones fit in my fifth wheel cubby.
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Post by lynnmor on Dec 8, 2022 4:38:53 GMT -5
As I mentioned RV deep cycle batteries can be drawn down to dead. Just don’t let them freeze, then they will not last. Any lead acid battery will have longer life if kept fully charged. A deep cycle battery will tolerate being drawn down better but they will last longer if not subjected to that abuse. |
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Post by rvcouple on Dec 8, 2022 16:10:13 GMT -5
66catman & RV couple... best explanations I have received. You were the most complete. I do read very well and I did a lot of research and could find no definitive answer. As for understanding DC voltage if I could have found a schematic or wiring chart I would have understood completely. I taught board level repairs for several years which is DC theory on steroids. We did not integrate gas. I can diagram an inverter for you it still does not tell me which one is on the trailer. The ? were because I have yet to find the information on line. I did not know what was at rest, active low or high (all DC circuits work off of triggers) they are called LOGIC LOW or LOGIC HIGH. I understand that 15 amps will not drive the full 30 amp system. I was told by INTERSTATE BATTERY that the battery should have maintained and not go dead. yet it did. I did not know that there was a built in trickle charger or the third position of the battery disconnect switch. I LEARNED A LONG TIME AGO... The only stupid question is a question not asked... HAPPY HOLIDAYS PEACE OUT ... the converter is trailer talk, it is actually a step down transformer, The problem with the DC television is the HERTZ CYCLE so their is no true high def in dc. the DC sign is half of the AC wave. The advantages of AC is the sign will travel farther than a true DC circuit and not have the sign break down. The reason you remove the negative from a battery first is to prevent a spark, an unsealed battery has fumes from the acid and in the right setting could cause an explosion. You might be overthinking the AC/DC circuits some. I've never seen a schematic for the electrical in a trailer. Like they don't make schematics for house wiring. The DC is just a distribution to the 12VDC devices. It can come from either the battery or the converter, assuming you are plugged in to shore power and the converter has AC power to draw from. When the draw is low, the converter will charge the battery. If you turn on something with a large draw, like the slide out motor, the battery will supply the amps the converter cannot. If you are not plugged into shore power, the battery will supply all the amps until it it drained. I actually don't think you have a 12 VDC TV in your trailer. They haven't been installing those for years in most RVs without a special request. The radio/DVD player is a different thing. They are more like overpowered car stereos. They run on 12 VDC, which is why the clock is usually displayed when you are disconnected from shore power. That is unlike the microwave which is AC powered and it's clock will only display when you are plugged into shore power and there is 110 VAC available. It makes for a quick check on the AC and if it's on. Have you put the house battery on a charger? Or plugged in the shore power to charge the battery? When you are plugged in, the gauge panel should show full for battery since the converter is supplying the power. If you unplug the shore power, the gauge panel should show you the actual level of voltage on the battery. |
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Post by cowboycool on Dec 8, 2022 23:08:47 GMT -5
Never said I had a 12 volt tv. would not install dc TV because I want a faster refresh rate. I finally got the Marine 24M Interstate battery replaced by Interstate, under warranty (10 days old) The battery in now in my laundry room of my home. I hooked up 110 for the first time today. Ran the things I wanted to learn about and removed the power completely. I actually found a link to TT battery care video as in cycling for a few hours to a slight draw and allowing the 110 to recharge. I live in GEORGIA and the next 8-12 weeks we will get a few freezes so I will reinstall the battery sometime in March. Getting a better handle on electrical. Now on to plumbing as in proper use of the tanks. As far as a generator... I am 65 and not as strong as I think I am. I have been reading up on a 3500 enclosed generator at HARBOR FREIGHT that I can chain in the back of my truck. From what I read it should support the ac and other light electrical. Right now I am months away from the purchase point. THANKS for all your help GIDDY UP GO, HAPPY HOLIDAYS, Peace Out
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Post by Edd505 on Dec 8, 2022 23:18:11 GMT -5
I posted on several face book pages and here this question...I really feel stupid constantly asking about the electrical. but I guess I am stupid. I am already wishing I had passed on the trailer. Wanted one all my life, with fees and all $30k and I am afraid to power it up. Bought it NEW and the dealer forgot to juice the battery so it went dead immediately. Now if INTERSTATE doesn't warranty the battery they sold the dealer I am out another $200. I ordered a 30 amp surge suppressor and got a BAIT & SWITCH THAT IS USED AND NOT THE ONE ORDERED. Now I have to spend a few hours to try to get INTERSTATE to do the right thing then time and money to return the suppressor. 8 days and I can not even turn the lights on. VERY DEPRESSING. Here is the question... If I turn the battery disconnect to the OFF position can I still plug it in with the 30 amp power cord to my 110 (I do have a crossover adapter) 2nd question Do I have to worry about any gas build up. I think all was turned off... Dream all your life about a gypsy wagon and every corner is an obstacle. Maybe this is NOT for me. GIDDY UP DEAD.. PEACE OUT... over 100 replies and I got everything from there are 2 electrical systems to WOW... not one response answered anything. I posted this same type ? here 4 days ago and all I got was a master of the obvious. CAN I REMOVE THE BATTERY, TURN THE BATTERY CONNECT TO OFF, AND STILL PLUG IN THE AC?  ? Better learn the RV lingo and how to work on it unless you want to spend $140+ per hour for a tech. It's an RV and no two are alike, each has wires run for that RV, there are no diagrams, no coax diagrams, same with water each is hand built. They are not like cars, warranty is by the selling dealer you don't just take it to a KZ dealer. If you take it to the selling dealer be prepared to leave it months even for simple things. Most of us fix the small stuff unless there's a major expense to do so. Sound to me like you need to find an experienced RVer you trust and sit down and ask questions. You might also look into the Escapees RV club, they have classes from time to time across the nation, there maybe one near you. BTW all new Rvers run into issues and it's apparent you very new. All the electronic stuff is useless unless your going to repair a board in your RV which is all basic electricity 12V & 110V. There is a host of people in the RV business looking for the newbie to take advantage of, one of the largest is Camping World. |
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Post by cowboycool on Dec 9, 2022 20:14:54 GMT -5
The most confusing thing is that you ask a question and get several answers and no 2 are even slightly related, so who do you believe. I am very naive, in that I believe that should help each other not pray on their weakness. My weakness is I believe in honesty and fair play. I was a salesman for most of my life and I did okay. I never lied to a customer, I never cheated a customer, and I never made a dishonest deal. Sure I had people get mad and I would bend over backwards TO A POINT to resolve the issue. You should never judge a person by their mistakes they should be judged by the way they resolve them.
Some of the answers I get from the so called LIFERS, have nothing to do with the question. You look on Utube and there is even more confusion. Case in point the majority of the people and videos say to use a surge protector, however there are several people ON THIS site that say "been doin this for 30 years and never used a surge protector" they should buy a lottery ticket. You should have a surge protector on every item you own that cost more than the surge protector.. Did an experiment. WENT ON 7 FACE BOOK GROUPS ALL TO DO WITH RV's... I asked a question about plugging in. Got over 400 answers, in the largest grouping only 22 of the answers were the same AND THEY WERE WRONG according to Utube? So I made a modest investment for something I have wanted to do my whole life, I have always heard that the nicest people are RVers, that I am finding out is not the case. sorry to rant but I AM SO FRUSTRATED.. Have a great day. PEACE OUT
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Post by 660catman on Dec 9, 2022 23:27:32 GMT -5
FWIW I bought a surge protector this year. One, because of some sketchy power posts and two, for our frequent power outages here at home. With the LCI control panel I felt it would be best to have one.
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Post by johnr on Dec 12, 2022 7:50:58 GMT -5
I'm sorry that you're taking it so personally. Everyone has different opinions. Youtube is just another set of people with their own opinions. There's nothing that makes YouTube more right than online forums. In fact, a lot of videos on YouTube are trying to sell you something, or they get kickbacks from manufacturers when you click on the product links. Take all opinions with a grain of salt. We are not professionals in the industry, we're just a group of RV owners who get together on a forum hosted by the manufacturer. We all do things differently, have different beliefs and also live in vastly different parts of the country (which does affect how/why we do things).
When anyone answers a question, they are going to give the answer that makes the most sense to them. Nobody here is going to show up at your home or campground and force you NOT to use a surge protector. If that's the best course of action in your opinion, then use one.
Nobody is taking advantage of you. What could we possibly get out of telling you that it's ok to plug in without a surge protector? There's nothing here that we're going to gain by telling you anything. None of us here are selling anything.
Frankly, I'd said the response is exactly the opposite the way you're interpreting it. If you ask a question and you get 400 responses, then that means that 400 people are going out of their way to try to help you. Take the advice that makes the most sense to you and leave the rest.
Good luck.
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Post by Edd505 on Dec 12, 2022 21:55:33 GMT -5
No one is as smart as all of us.
Quote Ron C
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