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Post by Chuck on Feb 13, 2022 19:44:53 GMT -5
Well here we go again 
The other day I found that my 2017 Kz R384RLT 5th wheel electrical system was dead as a door nail ... No AC inside trailer, TV, Frig, lights over kitchen sink that work on AC would not turn on, could not open slides at all besides that ....
As well batteries dead thus had not been charged up to open slides or get any AC into trailer Ugh
Chucked the 50 amp power cord coming into the trailer an there was 120 on either side of the 50amp cord but no power
inside the trailer to the distribution panel, not one amp Ugh !!!!
I believe it is the converter since I have no power to the breakers in the distribution panel were not tripped an no LED saying a fuse had blown I check with my Volt ohm meter, yep no power to panel .... Again the breaker for the converter
was not tripped which puzzles me ....
If I charge the batteries up to about 13.5 now I get AC into trailer an the LEDs in the main power panel come to life ....
So I'm wondering if my thinking is correct I need to replace the cheap 65amp WACO converter ... If I do replace it I'm looking at the Progressive 70amp smart converter an not the cheap WACO 65amp one that came
with the trailer which is recommended by E-trailer ...
Yet More !!!
As well our convention/Mic wave stop working as well, the wiring coming into the power plug lost it's neutral, the wiring is to
short to get the wires back into the back of the wall socket ... Thus I have to pull the frig out to put in new peace of wire
from junction box to the back of the wall socket were the appliance plugs in Ugh !!!!
An Agn More!!!
Once batteries were changed an I could open slides to look at distribution panel in pantry I found a puddle of water on each
I'm slowly rebuilding this 4 year old trailer one part at a time Ugh
TNXS in advance Chuck |
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Post by lynnmor on Feb 14, 2022 4:21:35 GMT -5
If you have no power at the panel, the problem must be between the cord and the panel. Check the power inlet where the cord attaches to see if there is power on the backside of it and that the connections are good.
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Post by Chuck on Feb 14, 2022 18:44:06 GMT -5
lynnmor That was my second thought, so took down storage wall. found power to back side of plug but no power at panel ... Once I got 13 volts back / recharge in batteries ( using a outside battery charger ) I had power back at breaker panel an everything worked, very strange ... The minute I loose voltage below 12.5 volts I have no 120 in trailer an batteries will go down to almost nothing ....
I'm not sure if I want to pull panel an see if I have power at the wiring going to the back of panel ... I figure if I had
power there the LED's would light up showing me that the fuse's were ok, as well testing the leads/wires I saw showed no power an no breakers in the panel were tripped ...
It's hard to trace wiring because it runs under stairs an the floor, so would have to pull heating ducks an other wiring to get in a position to even see if wiring going to panel is bad, burnt, damaged Ugh ...
My thinking which may be wrong is if the converter went bad I would have a tripped converter breaker, yet it was not tripped an worked properly as far as resetting, yet batteries are not getting charged ...
A very good friend on the form here told me that there is a relay that needs to be tripped in order for the 120 to run thought the trailer, that relay runs on 12v DC, thus if the 12v DC is not present the the relay
will not trip an thus no 120, thus the batteries will not charge ... I'm really beginning to see that this is true !!!
TNXs Chuck |
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Post by nvguy on Feb 14, 2022 23:51:07 GMT -5
It sure sounds like there is a relay there. Why? Good question. A bad converter won't necessarily trip the breaker, sometimes they just die.
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Post by jfspry58 on Feb 17, 2022 23:55:36 GMT -5
Chuck,
It may or may not be the problem, but I had a similar problem with my old Forest River 5er. My WFCO converter had bit the dirt and never tripped the breaker. I replaced it with the Progressive Dynamics smart converter and never had another issue. Good luck. After the past year I think you've earned it!
Jay
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Post by Chuck on Feb 20, 2022 19:31:44 GMT -5
UPDATE Replaced the Chinese WFCO converter with the Progressive Dynamics smart converter, all is good now, back to hacing 120 in trailer, batters now charging without outside source ....
TNXS to all for advice, I know it had to be converter I just needed reinsurance that my thinking was correct 
TNXS AGN Chuck
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Post by jfspry58 on Feb 24, 2022 23:31:11 GMT -5
Good deal! It’s about time to get that rig back out on the road isn’t it?
Jay
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dora
Newbie RV’er
Long Time RV'er
Posts: 27
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Post by dora on Feb 26, 2022 11:33:28 GMT -5
"Yet More !!! As well our convention/Mic wave stop working as well, the wiring coming into the power plug lost it's neutral, the wiring is to short to get the wires back into the back of the wall socket ... Thus I have to pull the frig out to put in new peace of wire from junction box to the back of the wall socket were the appliance plugs in Ugh !!!!" Just in case you haven't completed this yet there's a easy way to extend your neutral wire without running a new wire from the J-Box. For these types of repairs as well as for older homes I like using the WAGO Push-in connectors or the In Sure brand. These allow for attaching a pigtail wire as an extension in hard to reach places, when there's no room or not enough wire to use a wirenut. They work well with both solid and stranded wire. You can find them in most big box stores and they come with different number of ports depending on your project. They look like this:   |
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