True Pin Weight of KZ DURANGO D326RLT

Rule of thumb is to figure the =max= pin weight by using about 25% of the GVW.  So, if you have a 12k GVW, figure 4k on the pin as a =worst= case.  That being said, IMO, the vast majority of "average" campers rarely get to the GVW of their rigs.  Even if mfrs gave us a "true" pin wt, it would still depend on how you load and how much cr@p you carry with you.  I know that we travel pretty darn light as we're still weekend warriors.  Even when we are able to start taking longer trips, we'll still travel pretty light; it's just the way we are.

The other thing to remember, your payload also includes hitch, passengers and "stuff" in the truck.

Lyle

bill2e - The weights posted on the websites are dry weights; unloaded, without options or fluids. The unit you saw at the show was very likely loaded with options for that show, thus the different weights on the tag. Options like queen electric-tilt mattress with under-bed drawers, washer/dryer, bedroom roof air, ... can affect the weights and ratings.

Thanks Jay!

I'm the same way with my venerable '02 D'max 2500.  My old Komfort had a GVW of 11,360 and the one time I ever weighed, I was 1k+ over on my combined GVW, but well under on my RAWR and tires, so I wasn't too worried.  I sat squarely on the overloads, but almost level; about 1" butt-low on the truck.  I =did= tow nose-high due to not having flipped axles, and that's something I should have changed, but never did.  I never felt like the tail was wagging the dog, even towing at my heaviest.  I just watched my speed on the downhills and tried to travel as light as possible.  My KZ still pushes the limits on this old truck, but being 800 lbs lighter, certainly helps.  I still watch my speeds on the downhills and still travel as light as possible.  Knowing what I know now, I'd've bought a SRW 3500 and a different FW.  There =is= truth to the rule of thumb that you should settle on the trailer =before= buying the truck.

Lyle

I'm with you, I'll tow a little over to avoid driving a dually, I don't want the extra width or tires.  It's hard enough finding a parking space for a CCLB with SRW.

That was the only differance on Ford 250/350 was the spring pack, the rest of the drive trains, brakes etc are the same.  Had not thought of over load spring, had them eons ago with a slide in truck camper.  Could work on any of the newer trucks for a bit more added pay load, won't change the door sticker but would help with carrying weight.

That's one of the fallacies of the 25/35 class trucks.  Basically, the mfrs just remove 1 or 2 leaves from the spring pack to "make" a 25 class truck.  Guess what?  It's cheaper to register, which is why they sell the crap out of them vs the 35 class.  If I had the money, I'd literally turn my '02 D'max 2500 into a' "'02" 3500, but I sure as hell wouldn't tell MVD about it!  :-)  I'd do a body off resto and replace the engine with an '07 version LBZ and the suspension from a 3500.  Gets registered as a 2500, '02, with later model parts.

Lyle

Instead of spending 85K on a new F350 or 450 DW CC I spent 7K on rebuilding engine, another couple of hundred on air
bags an 3K on rebuilt transmission, now I have a new truck for 8 times less than new an it preforms very well for
a 2006 F350 an it's paid for ...

Safe Travels

Chuck

I spent about 15 minutes talking to a friend who runs a diesel shop near me.  They do a =lot= of fleet service and his advice was to forget about GM (waaaaaa!) and Ford (whew!) and go with a RAM (seriously?).  Initial cost is a lot less and, overall, they've seen far fewer issues with them.  He does like the Duramax, but the =trucks=, since about 2008, just seem to have a lot of nagging smaller issues, mostly electrical.  Lots of sensor issues, too.  Fords better, but they see a few more engine issues with the PS.  He said the biggest issue with doing a resto on my '02 is that I've still got an 18 y.o. truck, with parts getting more and more scarce.  '06/'07 LBZ trucks are 14-15 years old and are so desirable, that prices on good, lower mileage trucks are as much, or more, than a '16/'17 with even lower mileage.  A =lot= of the issues he sees are the niggling little stuff and he attributes it to all the "gadgets" and options as much as anything.  A mutual friend, who has driven Denalis for years, is about ready to go back to a truck with automatic, A/C, vinyl seats and floormats.  Crank windows if he could get them, too.  :-)  Me, in my mid-60's, I =need= my creature comforts and, if I want my wife to go along with me, =she= needs them even more.  :-)  So, now I'm flat-out considering ordering a brand new D'max from a local dealer as they seem to be =very= competitive on pricing...IF I talk to the right guy.  We'll see.  I might as well, as this'll likely be my last truck, so I might as well get what I want.

Oh, yeah, the main reason I called my buddy was to ask about DEF/DPF issues, as I've read some horror stories about the systems failing, short warranties and very high repair bills.  His comment was that they've never seen a system fail IF you stick to a strict maintenance schedule and use GOOD oils and additives.  As I said, they do a lot of fleet service and he said they've got trucks with well over 300k miles on them, with no major issues, and it's due to the maintenance.

Lyle