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Post by dondford1 on Feb 26, 2018 13:51:22 GMT -5
I just purchased a 1991 Sportsman 240TL; it is in pretty good shape and I plan to set it up semi-permanently at my deer hunting camp. I have looked all over the camper and cannot find the converter. I did find a breaker box/fuse box in the large "closet" by the "bathroom", but not the converter. The owner I purchased it from swore the fridge worked when he parked it few years ago, but I can't get it to come on, any thoughts there?
Does anyone here own this model? I would love to pick your brain.
Any help, advice etc greatly appreciated.
Don
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Post by lynnmor on Feb 26, 2018 15:44:26 GMT -5
Does the 12 volt system work? Do you have a battery? If the lights come on when plugged in with no battery, there must be a converter. I don’t know your model, but usually the converter, 120 volt breakers and 12 volt fuses are combined into a single unit. Some brands of trailers did a very good job of hiding converters in strange places. If you can get a number of 12 volt items working, turn on as many as you can and listen for the cooling fan. Report back.
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Post by rvdude on Feb 26, 2018 20:18:48 GMT -5
In my 2007 trailer, the converter was directly behind the breaker and fuse panel as lynnmor said. Good luck. Hope you get it figured out.
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Post by Chuck on Feb 27, 2018 14:18:31 GMT -5
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Post by dondford1 on Feb 27, 2018 14:22:55 GMT -5
Yes, I have a battery. The lights work, but I have it plugged into shore power now. I will unplug it next time up and see. Battery power isn't that important set up at the hunting cabin since we have power; but I need to be able to check fuses. The fridge isn't working and I'm hoping it's a fuse. Thanks guys for your help. I'm sure I will have a bunch more questions as I continue to get everything ready for hunting season.
D
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Post by Chuck on Feb 27, 2018 15:00:44 GMT -5
That's what the form is all about
Safe Travels
Chuck
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Post by dondford1 on Feb 27, 2018 20:47:55 GMT -5
Chuck:
Extra thanks for the link to the Owners Manuel, the camper did not have one and it will a HUGE help.
D
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Post by Chuck on Feb 28, 2018 11:51:24 GMT -5
Well dondford1 As some owners have found out, these manuals are a coverall for some not all specific line's of trailers but not specific to a trailer it's self, if that makes sense  Glad to help Safe travels Chuck |
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Post by dondford1 on Jun 9, 2018 18:55:16 GMT -5
Update. I have the power issues resolved but not the refrigerator, it does not work. It is a ammonia type gas/electric unit. I have checked all the fuses and that's not the problem. The previous owner swears it worked for him. I will only run it on electric, and never gas (the unit will be set up permanently at a hunting camp with power). The unit does not have gas bottles now; does the unit have to have gas supplied to it before the electric to work? Any ideas, I know that many older camper take the old units out and install new smaller electric units but I hate to do that until I know I can't get the old unit to work.
Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions, etc greatly appreciated.
D
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Post by lynnmor on Jun 9, 2018 22:18:32 GMT -5
You should get the manual for the brand and model of the fridge. The electric heating element should be making heat, if it does not then you troubleshoot that problem. If the element is heating and the fridge is not cooling, it likely is toast. You could temporarily try running it on propane and if there is a good flame, and no cooling, again it is toast.
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Post by dondford1 on Jun 10, 2018 8:33:05 GMT -5
Thanks for your reply. I knew while in gas mode, the propane supplied the heat. Are you saying that while in electric mode, a electric element heats up? Did not know that. I found the gas burner in the out side compartment, where would the electric element be? Up under the unit? Can it not be replaced. As with most camper manuals, it has general information with no specific information for any of the equipment, stove, air conditioner, etc.
D
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Post by grandpopsicle on Jun 12, 2018 7:52:48 GMT -5
Not too familiar with that brand fridge but for the most part they are all typical in their operation. Yes when hooked up to shore power no gas is used and therefore imo must be an element of some sort. My vent/access panel (KZ Sportsmen classic) is on the outside of the TT behind the fridge. From there you should be able to see a lot more of the goings on.
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Post by dondford on Aug 11, 2018 16:18:35 GMT -5
Update on my refrigerator problems. Finally got the unit working in electric mode; the freezer works great and keeps a bottle of water frozen solid, but the bottom part is barely cool. I have the thermostat at the bottom set on the "coldest" setting, there there dosen's seem to be a separate control for the freezer and the lower refrigerator part. Any ideas on how cool the lower part down?
Thanks for all you guys help with this issue.
D
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Post by lynnmor on Aug 11, 2018 17:40:50 GMT -5
Close the fridge and keep it closed for at least 24 hours, then report back. It may be normal, the freezer does lead the refrigerator part.
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Post by dondford on Aug 12, 2018 10:02:52 GMT -5
The camper is at my hunting camp. I was up the other day and the unit hasn't been opened in 4-5 days and that is when I noticed the refrigerator part wasn't very cold. It just occurred to me I should check the door seal. I am in the South and the camper gets awfully hot closed up with the air conditioner running, I'm sure that doesn't help.
D
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Post by lynnmor on Aug 12, 2018 12:05:14 GMT -5
I guess that you already checked the outside rear of the fridge for any debris blocking air flow. While exploring there, look for any powder that came out of the cooling unit and sniff around for an ammonia smell. Leaks are the end of the road for a cooling unit.
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Post by dondford on Aug 12, 2018 19:12:22 GMT -5
Thanks for your help. There seems to be a connector to add ammonia (looks a little like a tire valve) Is it possible add ammonia and where would you buy the cylinder/container?
Thanks again,
D
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Post by lynnmor on Aug 13, 2018 1:54:53 GMT -5
Did you find a leak? Google "Amish cooling unit" for possible repairs, but it usually entails replacing the whole cooling unit or the entire refrigerator.
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Post by dondford on Aug 13, 2018 13:43:29 GMT -5
Thank you for all your help.
D
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Post by grandpopsicle on Aug 14, 2018 5:45:50 GMT -5
You can add a battery operated fan to the inside to circulate the air. I put a small 12v pc fan in instead as it moves a lot more air and doesn't need the batteries replaced.I was able to drop the the setting down by 40%. The battery one's work ok...but 12v works wayyy better. Either way should help cool the lower half.
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