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Grease
Jul 1, 2017 5:59:56 GMT -5
Post by bc75 on Jul 1, 2017 5:59:56 GMT -5
I'm changing my wheel bearings i seen on a thread to use Timkin bearings does anyone know a good grease to use. I know it doesn't matter how good your bearings are if the grease isn't any good.
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Grease
Jul 1, 2017 7:34:31 GMT -5
Post by jetzen on Jul 1, 2017 7:34:31 GMT -5
I would go to your local auto parts store and ask for a high temp wheel bearing grease, one that is NLGI/LB and NLGI/GC certified. Actually Timkin make such a bearing grease.
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Grease
Jul 1, 2017 8:34:01 GMT -5
Post by lynnmor on Jul 1, 2017 8:34:01 GMT -5
I used the Timken grease for several bearing repacks. I previously used Valvoline and didn't like the oil separation, well the Timken separates just the same. Always stir the grease to recombine the oil, some separation is normal and is actually necessary. Grease is just oil with a thickening soap, usually lithium. Whatever grease you decide to use, be sure to get grease that is made specifically for wheel bearings, not an all purpose type. For years I used Pennzoil 707L but it is no longer available locally. I might go back to the Pennzoil and have it delivered.
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Grease
Jul 1, 2017 17:35:20 GMT -5
Post by jetzen on Jul 1, 2017 17:35:20 GMT -5
bc75,
NLGI/LB and NLGI/GC are certifications given to grease by the National Lubrication Grease Institute and SAE. The certifications means that they are compatible/safe to use on high temperature bearing and chassis applications and should be prominently labeled on the container.
Wheel bearing grease has 2 types of separation Dynamic-good, separation grease does this when it is working under pressure and heat Static-not good, old improperly stored grease
Contrary to what some have said if your grease is separated in its container it is NO GOOD. Throw it away. Yes it can be remixed by stirring but it's lubricating qualities/properties will now be suspect. Grease should be purchased in small quantities because it has a specific shelf life usually 1-2 years but only when the containers are properly sealed and stored. Bottom line If it separates in the container it will separate in your bearings.
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Grease
Jul 1, 2017 17:51:38 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by lynnmor on Jul 1, 2017 17:51:38 GMT -5
bc75,
NLGI/LB and NLGI/GC are certifications given to grease by SAE. The certifications means that they are compatible/safe to use on high temperature bearing applications and should be prominently labeled on the container.
Contrary to what some have said if your grease is separated it is NO GOOD. Throw it away. Grease should be purchased in small quantities because it has a specific shelf life. If it separates in the container it will separate in your bearings.
A bit of information can be found here: www.mobilindustrial.com/ind/english/files/tt-grease-static-oil-bleed.pdf |
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Grease
Jul 1, 2017 20:15:25 GMT -5
Post by bc75 on Jul 1, 2017 20:15:25 GMT -5
Thanks im thinking about replacing my breaks with the self adjusting ones when i have it tore apart for the bearings.
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Grease
Jul 1, 2017 20:38:50 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by lynnmor on Jul 1, 2017 20:38:50 GMT -5
Thanks im thinking about replacing my breaks with the self adjusting ones when i have it tore apart for the bearings. I've never seen the need for self adjusting. You need to service and inspect the brakes and bearings regularly and the simple adjustment can be done at that time. The brake drum run out can be enough to cause self adjusters to malfunction causing more problems than they are worth. |
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Grease
Jul 1, 2017 21:14:58 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by bc75 on Jul 1, 2017 21:14:58 GMT -5
Ok thanks I thought it would be less to worry about.
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Grease
Mar 1, 2018 18:03:04 GMT -5
Post by bc75 on Mar 1, 2018 18:03:04 GMT -5
Iv got my trailer up i noticed my wheel bearing have a grease fitting. Do i just add more grease or pull the wheel off.
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Grease
Mar 2, 2018 2:26:15 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by lynnmor on Mar 2, 2018 2:26:15 GMT -5
Iv got my trailer up i noticed my wheel bearing have a grease fitting. Do i just add more grease or pull the wheel off. Those grease fittings are nothing more than a sales gimmick. In order to grease the outer bearing, you would need to pump in an enormous amount of grease till the old grease from the inner bearing comes out. I suggest that the grease fitting never be used and the bearings be properly cleaned, inspected and repacked by hand when the brakes are inspected. Enormous amounts of grease in the hub interferes with brake service and invites contamination of the brake shoes. |
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Grease
Mar 2, 2018 12:11:18 GMT -5
Post by bc75 on Mar 2, 2018 12:11:18 GMT -5
Ok I have never had a camper with these fittings. Didnt know what i needed to do.
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Grease
Mar 2, 2018 13:04:38 GMT -5
Post by Chuck on Mar 2, 2018 13:04:38 GMT -5
bc75
If you look on some of the other RV sites you will see that there is problems at times with the dexter Axles
with grease zerts ... The problem is that owners will over grease the the bearing or the bearing seal will
be bad an grease will get onto the brakes an thus you either do not have brakes or very little because of
the grease on them ... As lynnmor, jetzen an other have suggested it is better to repack them either by
yourself with good wheel bearing grease or have a reputable RV or Tire shop do such for you ... The tire
shop I go to charges $100 an axle plus tax if I want them to do such, I am a person who will do my own
most times to save money, the RV dealer I bought my trailer from charges $250 plus tax, so $25 more an
axle from my tire shop ...
Save travels
Chuck
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Grease
Mar 3, 2018 23:00:22 GMT -5
Post by nvguy on Mar 3, 2018 23:00:22 GMT -5
Ok, I am going to weigh in here (and rant a bit) about those grease zerks that have been very accurately described as nothing but a marketing tool.
Originally this idea came from the boat trailer world because when a hot axle / hub was backed into cold water a vacuum was created in the hub. This caused water to be drawn into the hub to the determent of the bearings. The solution was something called bearing buddies. This consisted of a wheel seal designed to hold pressure along with a spring loaded hubcap that had a zerk so the hub could be filled with grease, creating pressure that prevented the vacuum from forming.
For some reason or another the axle manufactures decided that installing zerks would be a great idea. Except they forgot the typical trailer wheel seal is not designed to hold much (if any) pressure, so when people start pumping grease and fill the hub the pressure needed to push grease out thru the outer bearing is greater than what the seal can handle, so the grease goes into the brakes. We know what happens then, yep- I got to sell brakes to customers.
Another issue is grease incompatibility. Unless you are a lubrication engineer, it is not a good idea to mix greases. If you don't know what grease is in there, don't just start randomly pumping.
And finally, why are you pumping grease into a closed container?
Where did the existing grease go?
Hubs don't consume grease unless you have a seal failure, and then the last thing you would want to do is add more grease.
Grease doesn't "wear out", if the grease fails, so do your bearings and everything needs to be disassembled.
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Grease
Mar 4, 2018 9:07:38 GMT -5
Post by 2ndchance on Mar 4, 2018 9:07:38 GMT -5
While we're expressing opinions, which is what all this is, here's mine. You didn't say why you were replacing your bearings but from the questions you're asking it sounds like your first attempt. While it's not rocket science, if not done properly it's a waste of money and time at best, dangerous at worst and guaranteed to fail. You might be better off letting a wheel, brake and tire co.(not an rv dealer) do it but if your determined to do it yourself there are some very good videos and instructions on the web(NOT Joe's shade tree maintenance on Youtube) that will take you through it step by step, Dexter Axle has some good ones. Which by the way is where you should be getting your info instead of forum threads which, like I said are opinions.It's a good bet the Timken bearings you buy are probably made in China or a dozen other possible countries and are probably no better than any of the other name brands. And as far as the grease, any high temp, extreme pressure, certified for wheel bearing grease is as good as any other. I've been using Super Tech from Walmart for years on boat and utility trailers with no problems. It has everything the expensive brands have except the name and the price. Just don't mix grease with different base soaps. Dexter has a good video on the Easy Lube axles as well. Most of the problems, if not all with these come from people simply not knowing the proper way to use a grease gun. Most of which can build up 2000 pounds or more of hydraulic pressure when pumped too fast or too hard. More than enough to blow out a seal. Good luck and don't stress out too much over brand names.
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Post by lynnmor on Mar 4, 2018 9:41:02 GMT -5
My Timken wheel bearings were made in USA. My Chinese wheel bearings were not made to specification and 5 of the 8 failed rapidly. Here is information from Dexter: link |
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Grease
Mar 4, 2018 12:22:11 GMT -5
Post by Chuck on Mar 4, 2018 12:22:11 GMT -5
I agree Timken bears are made in the good old U.S.A. As well there are a couple of people here on the form that have owned repair shops an I trust there opinions ... I for one have always changed out bearings to the Timken's when needed to replace bearings an race's... I also agree that you can over grease these type of axles with either pressure or to much grease pushed into the axle grease fitting ... The old school was on equipment you shot grease into the fitting till you saw the old grease come out, these axles are not the old school stuff, to much of a good thing will hurt you ... Not only on this form but all the forms were they are using axles with grease zerts they are having the same exact discussions, check out Forest River or Montana or Heartland, Air Stream they are all discussing this ... The main point here in all of this is good preventive maintenance, thus you don't have problems along side the road an have to pay an arm an leg for repair of one form or another ... I use to do my own bearing repacks all the time, both on my TT, 5th wheels an flat bed trailer an even on my over the road truck an trailer to save money. Now days I'm at the point with a bad back an knees that I take my stuff down to the local tire shop an have them do it, is it worth it, heck yes ... Do I trust them to do a good job, yes, they do many a year an I have looked on when they have done a few of mine ... Oh an by the way on my last 5th wheel without asking they used Timken bearings to replace the old ones without asking ... So to not beat a dead horse  I believe this is an important subject but is as well part of keeping you home away from home on the road an not side of the road  Safe travels an happy trails Chuck |
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Grease
Mar 7, 2018 8:56:44 GMT -5
Post by spadoctor2 on Mar 7, 2018 8:56:44 GMT -5
Timkin bearings are one of the best but not all Timkin are US made. One problem of using the zerk fittings is if you do not rotate the wheel as you slowly add grease it will blow the seal out. The hubs on rv axles are different from marine and do lube the front bearing. Another issue is you MUST use the same grease as was used in the factory to avoid a miss match issue. All 3 rv axle manufactures are now owned by Lippert FYI. It is better to clean and repack bearings instead of using the fitting as stated. Foe my experience....I have trailerd just over 255000 mile and have never had a bearing fail be it Us or Chinese made. It depends on the proper lubrication. Also...most wheel bearings used by the auto industry are foreign made. Even CAT heavy equipment bearing are mainly Chinese now.
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Grease
Mar 7, 2018 13:23:26 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by jetzen on Mar 7, 2018 13:23:26 GMT -5
spadoctor2
Contrary to your comment about axles, there are actually 4axle manufacturers lci1(lippert), MORryde, Dexter and ALKO.
ALKO was purchased by Dexter a few years ago. Lippert does not own any of the other 3.
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Grease
Mar 11, 2018 22:00:59 GMT -5
Post by spadoctor2 on Mar 11, 2018 22:00:59 GMT -5
Jetzen....mor ride is not a factor in the rv industry....lippert bought Dexter in either 2015 or 2016...check it out. There was one other...the name slips my mind now but was the first that lippert bought 12 years ago or so. You stand corrected
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Rigs
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 23 
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Grease
Mar 12, 2018 12:35:29 GMT -5
Post by Rigs on Mar 12, 2018 12:35:29 GMT -5
Hi All - I'm a new TT owner and until recently was fooled into thinking that the grease zerks on my 2013 KZ Sportmen 32' BH TT's tandem axles was sufficient to keep the axles properly lubed. Learning that is not the case, I will be performing my first bearings re-greasing after getting the TT out of storage later this Spring here in MI. (I've seen some decent Youtube videos that will make the process doable). I have a couple of questions for the group:
* What does the group recommend I use to clean the bearings themselves with to get the old grease off? Parts cleaner? Brake cleaner? Shop rags? Other?
* Should I apply the recommended cleaning solution to the axle itself too? My goal is to remove all of the old grease and apply all new grease.
* Should I replace the seals or clean up and reuse if not damaged?
* Similar question for the bearings - if not damaged, I plan to reuse. Any concerns?
* I apologize if this was already answered - What brand of bearings grease have people found success with? I believe there was a mention of the Walmart brand but was also looking for other ones beyond asking the same question to the local Napa/Autozone person.
For clarity - I hope I have not over added grease via the the zerks. I only gave each tire a couple of pumps from the grease gun once per year. I will also perform a full inspection of the drum brakes to determine if any grease got into the braking system. Thankfully, I have not pulled my TT a significant amount of miles. I hope the limited travel results in a low risk of potential damage.
Thanks in advance for your recommendations and direction.
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