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Post by tnrver on Oct 11, 2015 8:59:19 GMT -5
Hi folks.., new member here and new KZ Sportsman owner. We have the 17RBS and im not sure on how to bi-pass the water heater. It has 2 valves, the cold on the bottom and hot on the top. My previous camper had a bi-pass valve also.
So my question is how do I do it. Some have told me to close the hot & cold valves, and pull antifreeze from the suction side of the pump.
I know I have to drain the water heater, FW tank and holding tanks, then start at my high points and work toward the low points and then flush toilet to get antifreeze into that waterline.
Am I correct so far? any help is appreciated.....thank-you! |
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Post by tnrver on Oct 15, 2015 19:19:31 GMT -5
Wow!!!!! no one has ever winterized their Sportsman?  ? |
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Post by larryg on Oct 16, 2015 6:10:48 GMT -5
It seems no 2 models are the same even in a single line. I have a 242 and it does not have a bypass or suction port at all, I am adding them. My old class A had a single bypass valve on the opposite side of the camper
do the bypass valves have 2 or 3 pipe connections? Can you post a picture?
the after market bypass kit I am adding has 3 pipes per valve and a short bypass hose that runs between them, set both to bypass or both to normal. drain the water heater.
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Post by shortlance on Oct 16, 2015 7:45:51 GMT -5
I cannot be of any help because winterizing is done by my dealer every October when he does the state inspection. I pay him to do it mostly for peace of mind. This way I know it is done right and if something would be missed and has freeze damage it is his problem to fix.
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Post by wolftrax on Oct 16, 2015 10:09:00 GMT -5
This weekend will be the first time winterizing my new Sportsman so I don't have anything to offer at this point.
I have used a combination of low pressure air and antifreeze in past years on our Class A and plan to do the same on this trailer.
Always hate having to put it away for the season, I know as soon as I do there will be a string of warmer then normal weekends that will tempt me to take it back out!
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Post by johnr on Oct 16, 2015 11:00:41 GMT -5
Mine's getting done next weekend after our last trip.
For the two valve item the original poster has. Maybe the valves are not shut-off valves, but re-direct valves? Turned one way it allows water to flow into the water tank and turned the other the water flows through the bypass?
Easy enough to find out. With hot water in the tank, turn the heating element off. Switch the two valves and try to get hot water in the RV. If all you get is cold water, then the bypass is on. If you get hot water, then it's still pulling from the tank.
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Post by joecamper on Oct 16, 2015 14:40:58 GMT -5
Another way to check that out is after you drain your water heater, hook up to an outside source and turn it on. If there's water flowing out of the water heater then it's not isolated (bypass not on). Obviously if there isn't any water running out, then the bypass is in the right position for winterizing.
As for the actual winterizing, I use air restricted by my water restriction device to blow everything out first. Make sure you get the outside water items and also the black tank "blow out" line done. Then I just use the pump to pull out antifreeze and run each valve until nothing but antifreeze runs out. That usually takes about a gallon and a half. I pour what I have left down the various drains. Always done this for 10 years counting my previous camper ... never had a problem. And we generally get below zero every winter here in Western Colorado.
My 2 cents
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Post by paroadking1 on Oct 16, 2015 14:41:31 GMT -5
First thing I did to my 30TH was blow out the lines with 20-30 psi to get all of the water out. Start with the water heater, then the faucets including the toilet, shower and outside shower. Then the drains underneath.
Then flip both bypasses at the water heater (inside trailer), and pump some RV antifreeze thru each faucet, toilet, shower and outside shower. Mine has a bypass hose already attached by the water heater. Just stick the hose in the RV bottle, open a faucet and turn on the pump. Don't run the bottle empty or you will get air in the line.
Then do the usual with the black water tank, but ad some antifreeze to that too.
Think that was it??
Keep the anode out of the water heater. Some water will pool there and freeze. Plus mine was partially eaten away from the water. Which is what it's purpose is.
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Post by tnrver on Oct 16, 2015 20:50:32 GMT -5
Thanks guys. Took it to the dealer today and heres how he did it.First thing I did was make sure that both my gray & black water tanks were empty. He drained the little water that was in the fresh water tank. Then drained the water heater and turned the hot & cold valves off. Disconnected the pump from the FW tank and hooked up a hose to put into the gallon of antifreeze. Turned on the pump, opened the cold water on the kitchen sink until pink came out, then the hot until pink came out. Next he flushed the toilet until he got pink, last was the shower,first cold until pink then hot until pink. poured antifreeze down the 2 p-traps. Last he opened the low point drains and antifreeze came out almost immediately. Always thought you opened them first but he did them last.
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Post by johnr on Oct 19, 2015 6:49:28 GMT -5
They winterized it and then drained the system?
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Post by lunarcaptain on Oct 19, 2015 14:45:57 GMT -5
they may have used the drain cocks just until they saw pink but not draining whole system. just thinking out loud.
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Post by kmart4321 on Oct 19, 2015 16:37:32 GMT -5
I open low point drains momentarily until I see pink. Same for freshwater tank drain. Ensures no water left in line that could freeze and cause issues down the road.
Opening low point also releases pressure in the system so I can make sure check valve on the fresh water intake can be depressed with a finger to remove residual water without blowing out o-ring
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Post by tnrver on Oct 19, 2015 18:08:23 GMT -5
I open low point drains momentarily until I see pink. That's exactly what he did. Normal, acceptable??? |
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Post by wolftrax on Oct 20, 2015 4:44:34 GMT -5
I open low point drains momentarily until I see pink. That's exactly what he did. Normal, acceptable??? Yes, that is normal. Helps to make sure the antifreeze made it all the way to the low point valves. |
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Post by tnrver on Oct 20, 2015 19:14:59 GMT -5
Thanks guys for the piece of mind
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Post by sneakers on Nov 4, 2015 8:42:36 GMT -5
Winterization on the 241RKS is very easy. Close both valves on hot water tank. Remove the anode rod and leave out. Open low point drains. Drain potable, grey and black tanks. If you have the installed winterization kit, close the potable water tank inlet line valve, open up the tap that connects to the open ended line ( mine is located right next to the pump) put this line in the jug of RV anti-freeze and turn on the pump. Open each tap until you get a flow of anti-freeze out of the tap. Do this for all taps and don't forget the toilet and outside shower, if installed. Ensure you have anti-freeze present in low point drains. last fill all sink traps with anti-freeze and that should do it. Took me about 6 gals of anti-freeze and 20 minutes.
Cheers
Sneakers
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Post by johnr on Nov 4, 2015 13:59:44 GMT -5
Wow, 6 gallons? I used 2.5 yesterday including filling all sink traps. Did you bypass your water heater?
Don't forget to do the lines if you have a black tank flusher installed.
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Post by lunarcaptain on Nov 4, 2015 14:22:11 GMT -5
e196s only took about a gallon maybe 1-1/2 gallon, i used 3 but let it run longer thru traps, and figured whatever else just went in the black and grey tanks.
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Post by sneakers on Nov 4, 2015 15:05:19 GMT -5
Sorry Guys.
It was 6 liters, I don't know what I was thinking. That equals around 1-1/2 US gal.
Damn Metric.
Cheers
Sneakers
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Post by joecamper on Nov 5, 2015 18:31:28 GMT -5
I always use about 1 1/2 gallons, then use what's left of the 2nd gallon to pour into all the drains just for good measure.
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