I am new to the forum and need expert advice. I bought a used 2016 KZ Sportster S242SBHSS travel trailer from an individual. During my inspection, I checked everywhere for soft floor but missed a spot in the bathroom against wall and under the bathroom vanity where the city water comes in. I discovered it by chance on our first camping trip in the trailer over labor day weekend. It appears to be the result of a lose connection on the city water connection that leaked under the vanity. I fixed the leak but it must have been happening since the trailer was new as the floor in that spot is completely rotted and the wood along the bottom of the wall of the trailer for about 24 inches crushes when I press on it with my thumb from underneath the trailer. The rotted spot spans s two of the places where the box is bolted to the frame. My question is, can it be fixed or is it unfixable? I know the floor can be cut out and replaced, but what about the spots that the frame bolts pass through? I would appreciate opinions from the RV pros on the board.
hi Marty, I had a similar experience. The floor plywood is sandwiched between the trailer frame and the wall. Since you can't really remove the wall, you will have to grind out the plywood that is underneath the wall to be able to insert the new plywood back under the wall. Where the screws holding the walls are located, you will have to natch a groove in the plywood and slip the new plywood in. your biggest problem, if you have pink insulating wool under the floor, is that it is probably all wet and soaking water and that will have to be removed also by cutting the underbelly... does that help?
Last Edit: Sept 6, 2019 20:54:45 GMT -5 by tweeter
Thanks for your reply. Yes, that does help. I knew about cutting the underbelly and replacing the insulation. I could be wrong, but I think there is a wood frame under the plywood floor under the walls. That is what I am referring to that crushes when I push on it from under the trailer. That is my biggest concern as the bolt holding the box to the frame goes through that and relies on it for structural support. I guess the other supports that aren't rotted are enough so that isn't a concern? Also, what did you use to grind the plywood that is sandwiched between the wall and the trailer frame?
a good old hammer and a screwdriver! on my camper, there is a aluminium frame (+ /- 2'' x 2'') sitting on the trailor metal frame that the plywood is screw to. I would be surprised that it is wood in your case ??
I haven't opened up the floor yet but I know that Sportsman travel trailers were built with a wood floor frame in the past. Not sure if an aluminium floor frame is in some models but not mine. I have a S242SBHSS so it is an entry level Travel Trailer. I have the laminate walls with woodlike panels on the inside, foam in the middle, and metal on the outside. I could see that when I fixed the leak in the city water connection. When I press on the underbelly material, it feels like wood frame to me and crushes where the rotten spot is.
The spot I need to replace has two water lines going through the floor and the drain for the bathroom vanity. The plastic plumbing for the drain appears to be glued together so I know I can't pull it apart to remove it. Where do I cut the drain where I can reglue it once the new floor is installed? Also, the metal clamps for the water lines are not the screw type. They appear to be pressed/snapped on. How do you remove these clamps? Can they be reused?
Well, I have to correct myself. What I am feeling on the bottom of the wall is the foam layer of the wall. However, I have discovered that my TT has much more serious problems than I thought. The slide pulled out where it is anchored to the floor. This is on the same side of the trailer as my other bad floor spot. I am thinking the floor is rotted there too. Why else would the slide bolts pull out. The fridge and electrical box are also on that side. The sellers must have known about this damage but didn't disclose it when they sold it. I wonder if I can sue.
Sorry to hear of even more rot. I doubt that you have legal recourse if there was no claim about condition.
This new discovery will take a big effort to correct. Do you have the time, place and resources to do the repairs?
When you cut ABS drain pipes, allow enough straight portion to remain so that it can be glued to a fitting using ABS cement. The water supply lines are PEX, and the clamps are cut off, or better still, cut the pipe to the side of the fitting. You should buy a tubing cutter, new clamps and the tool to crimp the clamps, all available at Lowe’s or Home Depot.
Last Edit: Sept 8, 2019 20:17:46 GMT -5 by lynnmor
Thanks for your reply. I was inspecting the place where the slide bolts to the floor and trying to figure out if there is any way to replace the floor under the slide without removing it from the trailer. I thought about supporting the slide and tilting it to take the weight off the floor and cut it out and replace it from the bottom. I thought about adding some cross members attached to the frame to bolt the slide anchor through to give it more strength. Do you think it is doable or is it just wishful thinking?
That would be tough, as you can see the slide removed will allow for a better job. If you have an indoor work area it would be best, working outdoors would require good tarps anchored securely. In any case, you could build a cheap stand from 2x4s and pull the slide onto that. I think there are YouTube videos to help.